I like events. I am not always a free wanderer by nature – when I visit new locations, I like to have something of a goal in mind, and then let the wandering happen as part of my comings or goings. So as part of the background research for this blog, I ended up browsing the “events” sections of the various locations I wanted to visit. And that was how I ultimately stumbled upon Into the Veil.
(Sorry, guys, no pictures in this one – the few I took were too dim or blurry to be of any use. It is very hard to capture the appropriate spookiness of a cemetery after dark without it looking like an old-timey photo of a “ghost”. Which, while appropriate in this case, is not actually visually useful.)
Green-Wood Cemetery is a National Historic Landmark and a Revolutionary War historic site, founded in 1838. It is sprawling and hilly, a known destination for bird-watchers, and has been a filming location for Flight of the Conchords, and the three best Law & Orders. It really is a beautiful park space, if you don’t mind the gentle disquiet of so many dead buried beneath you. (Like Washington Square Park, but actually advertised as a burial site, thus, with fewer acrobatics.)
Into the Veil is an event run jointly by the cemetery and by “hidden gem”-seekers Atlas Obscura. We queued up after dark and were admitted into the cemetery with a map and a self-provided flashlight. The map in question did not cover the park’s entire 478 acres (more than twice the size of Governor’s Island), but had marked out a designated area where guests could find various events, such as bands, live theatrical performances, or tarot card readings. Beyond the suggestions of the map, which did not give times and only the thinnest of navigational directions, attendees were allowed to explore freely.
My companion and I, who had not bothered to bring flashlights, and decided that maps were “for suckers,” immediately wandered off the suggested paths and found ourselves exploring the cemetery as a whole, stumbling upon all kinds of statuary. It was a gorgeous night, a day or two away from full moon, and the grounds were brilliantly illuminated, so it was a pleasant stroll back to the sanctioned activities, which at that point were lit by the largest collection of tealights I have seen in my life. Half the fun was traveling through the dark to follow clusters of tealights or the faint strains of music to a party locale. We got drastically veered off course at one point*, following a parade of bagpipers.
*We got drastically veered off course at several points, this was just the best one, because of the bagpipers.
In spite of the occasional cocktail tables provided by local bars, everything was tinged with a distinct air of spookiness. Green-Wood opened up a few mausoleums and some of its other famous highlights as event spaces for the night. There was a band playing under cover of neon lights at the back of the Catacombs. A drum circle raged joyously but ominously in the center of the always creepy Circle. (The Circle is even creepier at night ringed by tealights, while drums beat. Of all the times in the evening I joked that we were about to meet our untimely demise at the hands of something supernatural, this was the time that I meant it.) The biggest crowd of the most drunken revelers could be found at Sylvan Water, stretched out on the thoughtfully provided blankets, watching circus acts performed across the water, backlit by a mausoleum.
The event concluded at midnight, though was tough to accurately police a speedy exit, so our night petered out pleasantly atop one of the hills, under a full moon so bright it felt like waiting for the sunrise, while bagpipers gathered behind us to lure in a crowd for one last mournful parade.
Location: Main gate at Fifth Avenue and 25th Street, with gates at Fourth Avenue and 35th Street, Fort Hamilton Parkway, and Prospect Park West
Nearest Public Transit: R train at 25th St
Estimated Timespan: 1-3 hours
Cost: Free (Note: Into the Veil and other tours and events are largely not free)